Tunnel Card instructions by Shamela

 

TUNNEL CARD

Lady Vagabond by Shamela aka Craftigal

REQUIREMENTS:

2X A4 250GSM WHITE CARD

2 STRIPS OF WHITE OFF CUTS APPROX 5.25’ X 0.75’

SBBS25: SIR VAGABOND 8X8  ( 1 SHEET)

DFLDC27 LADY VAGABOND DIE CUTS

SBBS27  LADY VAGABOND  8X8  BACK COVER SHEET EMBELLISHMENTS (LADY & CAT)

ABBREVIATIONS: DP - DESIGNER PAPER.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

STEP 1: CUT  2 PIECES OF WHITE CARD TO 5.5’ X 5.5’. THIS IS YOUR BACK BASE AND THE FRONT OF YOUR CARD.

STEP 2: CUT 2 PIECES OF CARD TO 5.5’ X 3.5’ (B)

STEP 3:  SCORE YOUR (B) PIECES AT 0.5’ ; 1’ ; 1.5’ ; 2’ ; 2.5’ AND  3’.

STEP 4: CREATE A CONCERTINA/FAN BY FOLDING THE SCORE LINES INTO VALLEYS AND HILLS. IT SHOULD LOOK LIKE THE IMAGE BELOW.

STEP 5:   CREATE THE FRONT FRAME OF YOUR CARD BUT MEASURING 0.75’ ON ALL  4 SIDES AND DRAW LINES AS SHOWN. YOU WILL NOW REMOVE THE CENTRE PANEL TO CREATE A FRAME.

STEP 6: USE DISTRESS OXIDE IN STORMY SKY AND SHADE THE TOP OF YOUR FRAME.

STEP 7: STAMP SIR VAGABOND WTKAT15 ON THE TOP OF YOUR FRAME WITH THE SAME INK.

STEP 8: ATTACH THE ONE CONCERTINA  (B) TO THE SIDE OF YOUR BACK BASE (A). MAKE SURE THE JOINER IS FACING TOWARDS THE INSIDE OF YOUR CARD.  DO THE SAME ON THE OTHER SIDE. WE WILL BE COVERING ITHE BACK WITH DESIGNER PAPER TO COVER.

STEP 9:  FUSSY CUT YOUR DP AS SHOWN BELOW.

STEP 10:   FUSSY CUT THE REST OF YOUR DP AS SHOWN BELOW

STEP 11:   REMOVE APPROX 1 7/8’ FROM THE LEFT SIDE OF THE TOP PIECE OF YOUR DP.

STEP 12:  TRIM APPROX 0.5’ OFF THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE SAME PIECE.

STEP 13: TRIM APPROX 2’ OFF THE TOP OF THIS SHEET.

 STEP 14: GLUE INTO YOUR BASE AS SHOWN BELOW

STEP 15: USE STORMY SKY DISTRESS OXIDE AND SHADE IN THE EXPOSED AREA ON    YOUR BASE CARD

 

 

STEP 16:  ALIGN NEXT PIECE OF DP AND TRIM DOWN TO SIZE. MAKE SURE THE PATTERN MATCHES UP

STEP 17: DO THE SAME WITH THE LAST PIECE OF DP.

  STEP 18: I USED 2 STRIPS TO ATTACH MY LAST 2 PIECES

STEP 19:  ATTACH THE WHITE STRIP APPROX 1.75’ FROM THE BOTTOM OF YOUR BASE. ON THE FIRST STEP OF YOUR HINGE (B). MAKE SURE IT IS EVENLY ATTACHED AND DOES NOT TOUCH THE INSIDE  EDGE OF YOUR HINGE.

STEP 20: ATTACH 2ND STRIP APPROX 0.5’ FROM THE BOTTOM OF YOUR BASE. GLUE TO THE NEXT STEP ON YOUR HINGE. MAKE SURE YOU LINE UP THE PATTERN SO THAT IT MATCHES PERFECTLY.

STEP 21: GLUE YOUR FRAME TO THE TOP OF YOUR HINGE. PLEASE REMEMBER TO ONLY ADD GLUE TO THE SIDES. THE TOP OF YOUR FRAME HAS TO REMAIN CLEAR OF ADHESIVE TO MAKE SURE YOUR CARD WILL BE ABLE TO FOLD FLAT FOR POSTING.

STEP 25:  FINALLY EMBELLISH WITH FINAL PIECE OF YOUR DP AS SHOWN AND ADD YOUR DIE CUTS  (DFLDC27) AND IMAGES CUT FROM THE LADY VAGABOND 8X8 DP (SBBS27)

Secret Design Team Member - Guest post

Dear Reader

Today I have this gorgeous card from my secret Design Team member who can only officially join us at the end of February 2021!

However, they have joined in the December launch fun by creating a guest post using the Lady Vagabond paper and chipboards!

I love the way they have put a genuine eyelet in the tiny tag and added a piece of string.

Their attention to detail and interesting layers of papers which they have fussy cut beautifully is a real feast for the eyes!

Finnabair inspired Steampunk canvas with Snip Art chipboards

Its been a while since I was at my desk creating...  I was inspired by a recent acquisition of Snip Art Chipboards and some Finnabair molded items as well as some clock hands that I purchased at a vintage market. 

The photo above is my finished canvas, the photo below is how it started out!  

I first took out all my chipboards that I thought I might use, as well as the laser cut clock faces I was gifted.

I set about laying everything out how I wanted it... then the painful part of gluing it all down... I used the 3D matte gel...this is not my favourite part of any project, but taking a photo of it before I start helps as sometimes you have to lift off so many things to glue the bottom item, that you forget what you had where...

The photo below is of the glue drying... once again I have to leave the studio or I want to start painting it... this just causes frustration on my part if I do start painting, as the parts move around until the 3D gel has dried...

Finally the glue was dry and I could gesso the whole thing

followed by adding some black paint and spraying it with water so that it settles in the hollows...

I added some vintage photo distress paint as I was heading towards a rusty look...

but changed my mind when my eyes fell on my Sparks paints...  so I used Ginger Magic and Raven black together with Brushed Iron Metallique Wax for highlights.

Here is a close up of the finished canvas